In spite of the hardships faced by the world at large, UK Vogue presses on with its decidedly decadent take on 'the most wonderful time of the year'. It's fashion fantasy via the Tim Burton-esque Escapism Express, and Carla Johnston happily goes along for the ride...It’s time to be a child again – albeit with couture cravings – so embrace the fantastical, enjoy the magical and swim in a sea of whimsical. The December issue of UK Vogue is celebrating style in a flight of fancy.
The cover... A demure Kate Moss floating on a cloud of Dior silk tulle graces a matte-finished cover for this month’s Vogue. While this might lead one to expect Ms Moss to feature within the pages of this truly decadent installment, such would be wishful thinking. And so begins the fantasy.
Apparently Moss was set to model the incredible outfits shot for Nick Knight’s ‘Unbelievable Fashion’ spread, but her Dior number seemed so fantastic editor Alexandra Shulman decided she deserved pride of place on their gatefold cover only. I enjoyed my fill of Moss with her 12-page spread in their October issue, so I’m almost willing to take Shulman at her word… almost.
The ed. says… “In testing times, we all need to dream and to have an emotional escape route, and in the many inspiring contributions we have elicited from a wonderful cast of characters… there is so much to admire and marvel at.”
The story line-up:
• Not so much a story as indulging the fancy of one of the fashion world’s true geniuses, ‘Karl Lagerfeld’s secret ball’ is a pictorial depiction of an imagined secret ball – an illustrated fashion fantasy – that inspires as much as it intrigues.
• In ‘Wonder Women’, 34-year-old set designer Shona Heath is applauded for her natural beauty (freckled face and make-up free) and effervescent charm, which contrasts the fantastical, extravagant and elaborate scenes she conjures up in her work. Fairytale gardener Sarah Price is also honoured (her artful garden designs would evoke the playful Mary Lennox in all of us) as is director Dawn Shadforth, best known for her transformation of Kylie Minogue from camp pop princess to sexy, hot-pants-wearing temptress in the 2001 hit “Can’t Get You Out Of My Head”.
• ‘Story time’ provides further escapism as four writers offer their own versions of a fashion fairytale… Juliette Greco’s black dress cautions like a modern day Brothers Grimm tale, though I still find myself wanting to smudge black eyeliner on my lids, don a sexy black negligee and saunter the streets of Paris!
• When fashion features writer Sarah Harris accepts the couture challenge of a lifetime for ‘Excess all areas’ – wearing head to toe couture morning, noon and night for a whole week – I don’t know whether to cry or crave. Okay, so she got blisters on top of blisters, but she looked drop dead gorgeous getting them. With apparently no more than 1,500 couture clients worldwide, the pains of the superbly dressed (like not being able to look down over your starched white Armani bow tie) are limited to a select few… and it seems this ‘assignment’ had even fewer suitable candidates, with all the outfits Harris wore coming straight from the designer’s sample cupboards. Hmm… just maybe I could squeeze into the shoes!
• ‘Tis the season to be sentimental, so Vogue asks those who supposedly 'have it all' about their ‘most treasured item’, with results that surprise and make you sigh.
• ‘The great debate’ this month is Maximalism vs Minimalism. Self-confirmed Maximalist Bethan Cole asserts that she’s all about the details: “I like ruffles… outfits that are realised in three dimensions. One colour is not enough.” While Jess Cartner-Morley backs up her less-is-more attitude citing Yves Saint Laurent, Calvin Klein and even Balenciaga’s a/w ’08 collection. No one messes with Balenciaga!
• For something surprising and sweet, read the words of Lily Cole in ‘Come dine with me’, in which the fabulous are asked who they would invite to their own fantasy dinner party. Her description is thoughtful, even poetic. Now I want to meet her; I just know we could be friends.
The superficial:
• This month’s fashion line-up is a feast for the eyes. Nick Knight’s ‘Unbelievable fashion’ goes beyond the boundaries of imagination and well into the fantastical; vibrant Galliano sweeps across the same stage as Dior and Giles couture while the clothes express a life all of their own – the models, faceless beauties, endorsing total illusion.
• Tim Walker takes on Roald Dahl in ‘Tales of the unexpected’ (featuring eccentric husband and wife team Tim Burton and Helena Bonham Carter), while jewels and crystals are given their own fairytale backdrops in ‘Spellbound’. But it’s via ‘Where the wild things are’ that the wonder of colour and all things playful truly dazzle (showcasing fashion’s brightest young design stars).
• In Vogue Focus, Lauren Cochrane swears disco
is back with ‘C’est chic’, while Sarah Harris introduces five hot new designers that you simply must add to your Christmas wish list.• One of my only disappointments this issue is Manolo Blahnik’s contribution in ‘Fancy footwork’. Told to let his imagination run wild, Blahnik supposedly designed a shoe exclusively for Vogue… well, he drew a shoe, but would you wear it, even if it were ergonomically possible? ‘Flights of fancy’ inspires somewhat more confidence in the creatives; check out rival Christian Louboutin’s take on the humble fan.
• The beauty pages splash you back to the here and now with ‘Colour vision’; strike a pose with bold hues that prettify. While in the salon, ‘Power up’ your hairdryer and master volume – OTT hair is where it’s at.
• If you were thinking you could save a bit this season, think again… ‘Liquid assets’ proves that 2009 will be the year of the ‘scent’ with fragrances enjoying their own couture creations. Try Ralph Lauren Love, complete with decadent bottle and a rare amethyst stopper, for the princely sum of only £2,200.
The glossary: Fashion & Fantasy, Kate Moss, couture, Tim Burton, Helena Bonham Carter, ‘show-off pieces’, ‘disco glamour’, Karl Lagerfeld…
The score:
Overall excitement factor 9/10
Feel-good factor 6/10
Eye-candy rating 6/6
Total 21/26
The stats:
Issue: December 2008
Cover price: £3.80
Book size: 408 pages
FOB ads: Estee Lauder, Gucci, Dior, Chanel, Prada, D&G, Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren, Clinique, Lancome Oscillation, Tiffany & Co.,Bottega Veneta, Rolex, Dior, Cartier, Miu Miu, Omega, Georgio Armani, De Beers, Roberto Cavalli…
Back cover: Dior
Supplement: ‘The Secret Address Book’
Editor: Alexandra Shulman
Publisher: Conde Nast UK
Website: www.vogue.co.uk
Yours truly,
Girl With a Satchel & Carla J.
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