Mags: Marie Claire's new look

With Australian Glamour on the 2009 News Magazines production schedule (and Marie Claire’s dynamic former deputy at the helm), new ACP Magazines girl Grazia flashing her Prada pumps about town, Cosmo’s value-for-money revamp and editor Jackie Frank on the panel of Channel Seven’s Make Me a Supermodel, Marie Claire can’t really afford to let herself go.

And so this month she’s sporting a new look: the equivalent of a post-divorce makeover ala Uma Thurman. Marie Claire wants to feel young and relevant and attractive and alive. But while superficially she’s had a lift, nip and tuck, there’s still a sense that she's not fully embracing the opportunities that her new lease on life afford: call it cobwebs or a strategy designed to keep loyal readers from freaking out, but despite the trimming, tightening and new fonts, the content is much the same.

The story line-up reads like your typical issue: insert shocking murder/crime story here; add provocative (preferably naked) pictures here; voyeuristic sex story here; tear-jerking first-person story over here; then fill in blanks with an illuminating global issue, something crazy out of the US, something on body image, a sprinkling of celebrity for the glamour factor, overpriced fashion and face creams tempered by token cheap finds, and how-to-type pieces designed to help readers get better at living life. Finish with a 'Life Story' and let's call it a day.

'If it ain't broke, don't fix it', they say, and obviously Marie Claire sells, so the formula has its appeal, but I was looking for something more inside. A change of tone? Perspective? Section order? A little humour? A columnist, perhaps? Big, amazing, conceptual ideas? Nope – Jackie Frank likes what she reads and sees, and she's sticking to it (so there!).

The cover: There’s no doubting Scarlett is lush. Those lips, those breasts, that supple young skin, bouncy hair… she makes you want to be 10 years younger (at least) – and that's probably what Marie Claire's mostly mature (i.e. 30+) readership is thinking. ‘Get Sexy: hot up your hair; get glowing skin; update your makeup’ the cover line next to her head encourages us. How about time travel? Despite being around for eons, Scarlett is still only 23. Will more mature Marie Claire readers respond to her, even with her status as Woody Allen muse, fiancé to Ryan Reynolds and relatively untainted reputation? Do they aspire to her man-entrancing, come-hither, substantial boobs ‘n’ butt looks? Is she interesting? I personally wouldn’t see a film, or buy a magazine, just because Scarlett is in it.

In terms of cover lines, Marie Claire has always been very formulaic. It’s still playing the numbers game. The vague ‘629 Looks You’ll Love’ is undoubtedly some random calculation of anything that could possibly be referred to as a ‘look’: like a hair style, an outfit, a catwalk shot, a celebrity picture, a trend page, makeup on a model… perhaps even the linen cupboard on page 272. In terms of validation, pity the poor work experience girl who may have been assigned the task of flicking through ‘the book’ to tally up the number of ‘looks’. Not that we’d have the time or care to check.

The ed. says: “Change is about building on our strengths and building on them… don’t forget, you decide who’s ultimately going to be Australia’s next supermodel. So tune in to the show on Channel 7 on August 6 at 7.30pm and cast your vote!”

The story line-up:

• We get a mix of serious, frivolous and instructive features and first-person tales, as per usual, with lots of women to relate to, feel sorry for, inspire us or despise.
  
• Ingrid Pulson's story is inspiring. Her children and father were murdered by her husbad and she resolved to stay strong, issuing herself a daily self-care list and now has a book published and her own company. Good can come of crap, or as James better puts it: “Blessed is he who perserveres under trial, because when he has stood the test, he will receive the crown of life that God has promised to those who love him.”
• 
• “After 25 Years I’ve Finally Found My True Body” is by Rebecca Carey, who writes of her relationship with her body and food. I’ve no doubt many women will related to her frustrated (and mind-numbing) preoccupation with her weight, struggle with food and self-control and deep desire to accept her shape.
• I was unsettled by Katherine Fleming's story, 'Why is it easier to get child porn than child care?', which starts off well by illustrating that society makes essential services, like childcare, hard to access, while the borderless internet, free of red tape, has made accessing information, like how to make a bomb super-easy. For me, it falls apart when she tries to obtain the ingredients for Big Mac special sauce (in the same story as childcare?) and the abortion pill (Marie Claire is decidedly pro-abortion, while the idea of it makes me queasy and morally uneasy). A little tacky for my liking.
• Speaking of tacky: Cleo Glyde explores the concept of ménage a trios, inspired by actress Tilda Swinton's double-timing 'progressive' relationship (a young lover; an older partner). All this post-feminist grandstanding stuff really irks me (if men can do it, why can't we?). If it feels wrong, looks wrong and gets too complicated, then it probably is wrong. Granted, Glyde isn't taking it all too seriously.
• ‘Father Figures’ is a ‘US Report’ on the ‘flat-pack fathers that are helping millions of children across the US’. Apparently the families of soldiers at war are using comforting cardboard cut-outs to fill the family gap till daddy gets home.
  
• Marie Claire asks, ‘why are one in three women still sexually harassed at work?’. Writer Melissa Field reports on the ‘hidden epidemic’. New federal Sex Discrimination Commissioner Elizabeth Broderick is on the case, shocked by the pervasiveness of the problem and the lack of complaints made.
  
• ‘What gives these women super power?’ is a ‘fashion report’ story about the 90s supermodel set, taking in the recent campaign-led return of Linda, Christy, Claudia, Naomi and co., and the fashion world’s boredom with celebrities. The story recalls the most popular models from the ‘40s till now, fashion’s fickle aesthetic love affairs (the Amazonians, the exotic ethnic girls, all-American girls, quirky girls, waifs…), the influence of photographer Steven Meisel and Versace, contract deals, music videos, boyfriends, diva demands, first-class lifestyles, the downfall of the supermodel, which ushered in the Age of Celebrity and, now, the renaissance.
  
• ‘Meet the man who’s on every star’s speed dial’ introduces us to all the kinds of hired help over-indulged celebrities now see as essential to their survival, including the personal tanner, astrologers, eco consultants and nutritionists. The story reveals Madonna is selective about the people in her entourage who score gifts. Ooh, meanie.
• The 'All About You' section, which I always find informative if simplistic (problem, solution, done!), gives us tips on being fat-savvy, optimistic, managing money in relationships, sleeping and being a star employee.
• The issue rounds out with the life story of Zelda Fitzgerald, wife of novelist F Scott Fitzgerald (he of The Great Gatsby), who tragically died aged 47 in a fire at a psychiatric hospital where she was a patient. They had a troubled, tempestuous marriage, marred by infidelity, distrust, competitiveness, paranoia and fighting. She obvi. didn't read Marie Claire's advice pages.
  

The superficial:

• ‘Short Order’, shot on white in a studio, is simple, crisp, urban and highly wearable (good legs need only apply, of course). Garments range from a $2299 Jil Sander jacket to a $295 Wayne Cooper top, Kirrily Johnson high-waisted shorts ($330), Kate Sylvester denim/linen shorts ($248), Lover blazer ($539) and jumpsuit ($385) and Lisa Ho silk top ($349).
• Featuring neutral shades, linen suits, cotton dresses, tan accessories, ruffled blouses and Hermes riding boots, ‘Travelling Light’ comes to us care of Rajasthan, India.
  
• Back in the studio, ‘Soft Focus’ pairs tailoring with ‘feminine ruffles and fluid fabrics’. The model sports Selma Blair hair, black nails, violet eye makeup and isn’t afraid to show her nipples in this season’s transparent silk blouse (the rest of us shall wear camisoles, thank you). Some great styling.
• ‘101 Ideas’, one of my favourite fashion sections, is all about denim and feminine florals this month. Highly wearable and labels are a mix of just-affordable middle-market and Aussie designer (Country Road, camilla and marc, Zimmermann, Jigsaw, Therese Rawsthorne, Natasha, Bassike, Sportscraft, Third Millennium, French Connection, Just Jeans…). I Want Everything.
  
• The shopping section is six pages of editor’s picks. Each editor’s not-small picture is accompanied by the ‘key look’ she’s loving (soft tailoring, artistic prints, sheer simplicity, pale denim, new global), catwalk images and still-life shots. Very easy on the eye with simple styling tips, there’s something for most, though price points err towards the aspirational.
• The Beauty section delivers '10 speedy hair solutions' (be style savvy, fix your fringe, deal with dirt, look second-day sexy, brighten up…); three ‘from-the-runway looks’ (solid gold, acid wash, pretty punk); evening beauty ritual tips and products; three hair updates (the romantic up-do is dreamy but might look dishevelled on your average gal); new perfumes, foundations, blush, skincare solutions by Biotherm, Clinique and Olay; luxe skin products (La Mer The Essence, $3500; Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv, $1320; La Praire Skin Caviar, $1300…) you won’t see at the mag’s beauty sale; bronzing products; and bold lipstick shades.
  
• Pictures of wood-fired pizzas and roasted vegetables tempt the palette in 'Lifestyle'; a $2473.50 chair makes the ‘101 Ideas’ cut ($65 IKEA chairs further on for the rest of us); and ‘how to keep a linen cupboard’ suggests you scrap all your mismatched wares and start afresh! In travel we venture to the Canadian Rockies for a ski.
  

I like the new, smaller shape, orderly section separation and fashion pages, though I was looking to be considerably more impressed with the editorial line-up.

The score:
Overall excitement factor: 6/10
Feel-good factor: 5/10
Eye-candy rating: 3-4/6

The stats:
Issue: September 2008Cover price: $8.20
Book size: 308 pages
FOB ads: Estee Lauder, Louis Vuitton, Emporio Armani, Lancome, Fendi, Clinique, Biotherm...
Back cover: Dior Miss Dior Cherie
Editor: Jackie Frank
Website: www.marieclaire.com.au

Yours truly,
Girl With a Satchel