Thursday, 10 January 2008

A very blando Vogue

I started reading February Vogue while on holiday up north but quickly lost interest (reprinted Jennifer Connolley interview; blah-blah stories on designers I don't particularly care about; unseasonal fashion) and had to force myself to come back to it.

Feb issues are, of course, tied up before the editorial teams head off for the holidays (as are March issues, in some cases), and, coincidentally, this issue says to me "I'm tired; I need a holiday." Despite some quite pleasing features and still-life pages, it's lacking in the inspiration department. It's like its personality accidentally got sucked out during liposuction surgery (P.S. If it's surgery you want, see the 'Cosmetic Enhancement Guide' inside!).
The cover is care of US Vogue/Mario Testino, as is the rehashed 14-page feature/photographic spread devoted to the demure 'Oscar Winner' (just in case you were in any doubt about her credentials) inside. And while US Vogue's November issue gave us 'Closet Classics', Vogue Australia gives us 'Modern Classics'.
Feb issues are usually quite prescriptive – Valentine's Day = love/romance = gifts for the one you love = perfume/lingerie, and so Vogue sticks to the formula. There's a five-page lingerie special, which features some gorgeous finery in soft pastel shades along with candles, furniture and perfume to adorn your boudoir, and tips on how to care for your wears. It's one of the more aesthetically pleasing fashion spreads. Plus, I'm a sucker for anything that features ballet shoes.

The vintage shopping special, which profiles our country's more upmarket vintage stores, will please those with a penchant for unique pieces with money to burn, while designers and wannabe designers will get a kick out of reading about Christophe Decarnin (the hipster at the helm of Balmain), Brian Atwood (creative director for Bally) and the playfully arrogant Alex Perry, who is now doing suiting. Arty types might enjoy the profile piece on gallery owner Sarah Cottier and Amy Cohen's first-person account of her elective mastectomy will appeal to most, though her decision to have her breasts removed due to her family's history of breast cancer (her sister and mother had it) left me feeling perplexed: at 40 (and damn she looks good for 40), she hadn't been diagnosed with the disease, so the mastectomy was a preventative measure, but is this playing God or playing smart and safe? The single Cohen winds up with a pair of D-cup boobs and more self confidence: "It only took me 40 years to become a blonde with big breasts!"
This gorgeous shot of Emily Blunt provides some visual reprieve and the 'Vogue Talks' interview with the star makes me like her even more. Definite girl crush. I hope she's ridiculously successful. The Scene DPS, edited by Clare Press (who should rank highly on the payroll, such is her value to the mag), is good, as usual, and contains a Q&A with Katherine Heigl which provides some insight into her Mormon roots. Jo Chichester's film reviews are excellent. There's no sugar-coating her disdain for P.S. I Love You, which she describes as "so contrived... that even the shape of Swank's mouth, frequently shot in extreme close-up, annoyed me." I found myself nodding in agreement with everything she said. The film is unbearably formulaic and lacking in charisma. Thank you, Jo, for your articulate review.

The two main feature stories, 'Cause Celebre' by Kelly Doust and 'It must be love' by Clare Press are good reads – and both work first-person insights into the subject matter, which I like, so long as they're relevant and not simply an excuse to show off (as some American writers are prone to – Aussie writers tend to be self-deprecating and self-conscious in their personal revelations) and is becoming more common in magazine feature writing. Doust, a PR manager for Allen & Unwin, has a real knack for penning a good tale that winds its way around the subject matter before neatly concluding on a note to leave you quite satisfied. 'Cause Celebre' is her take on charitable giving – more particularly, our desire to let others know just how charitable we are and whether this urge to divulge our philanthropic wonderfulness takes away from the act of giving. Doust dubs it 'competitive altruism'. I agree with her when she asks "Isn't it the case that truly charitable acts are performed anonymously, without recognition from our peers?" and appreciated her shedding light on the dodgy work of French charity Zoe's Ark and the 'token gestures of charity' our society has become accustomed to. Doust suggests, through her interview with Sarah Garnett, who distributes books to Sydney's homeless, that action and time, not money and good intentions, are what truly charitable giving are about.

Clare Press's three-page feature on romance is similarly lucid and insightful, providing a historical framework, statements about the contemporary state of love and marriage, thoughts on how culture and the media shapes our ideals, as well as her own experience of romantic serendipity. For psychologist Dina L. McMillan, romance can 'be empowering' while for novelist Ceclia Ahern (coincidentally the author of P.S. I Love You), love is about the 'little things' people do for each other, rather than grand gestures. Press references several girl-guides, including Camilla Morton's A Girl For All Seasons and Gisele Scanlon's The Goddess Guide (which should make the publishers of said books delighted), which offer tips on how to best impress the one you love – chocolate! Press then goes on to explain why eating chocolate makes us blush like schoolgirls before summing up with the science behind love and a sobering thought for the Bridget Jones' of the world: "If in doubt, there's always chocolate."

The Beauty section is stronger this month. I love the opening page and it ties in well with the issue's romantic theme. I enjoyed 'Model Essentials' (not least because Helena Christensen is featured), the story on Laura Mercier and the 'Garden Party' still-life page. Lachlan Bailey's story on androgynous scents was also an entertaining and enlightening read.

Now to fashion...

I'm dubbing this Paris Vogue-derived shoot 'Snow White and the Euro Dwarf'...

I'm a huge fan of blazers and stripy tees and a little bling but the little man makes Racquel Zimmerman look gigantic, no?
The model in the 'Body of evidence' lingerie spread looks like Catherine McNeil but I can't seem to locate the model credit to discern whether it is or not. All that dim, come-hither lighting doesn't help matters.

And, lastly, I love a good suit but do we have to be so darn serious so early in the year? We girls are hitting the beach after work, pounding the pavements to make good on Christmas indulgences and partying al fresco on the weekends. I know Vogue's not a lifestyle magazine but in what way does the fashion in this issue relate to what readers are currently wanting to wear? As in this month's Marie Claire, Vogue could have added touches from the latest spring/summer shows to lighten things up a little. Thankfully, there is some redemption to be found on the Last Look page...

Overall excitement factor: 3
Feel-good factor: Meh! Whatevs.
Eye-candy factor: 3

The Stats
Issue: February 2008
Cover price: $7.95 AUD
Book size: 162 pagesInside front cover: Estee Lauder
Back cover: Carla Zampatti
Front-of-book ads: DiorSkin, Chanel Precision, Tag Heuer, Dior Midnight Poison, Hugo Boss, Escada, Chanel watches, Ralph Lauren, Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Bally, Emporio Armani Diamonds
Editor: Kirstie Clements
Publisher: News Magazines
Website: www.vogue.com.au

14 comments:

mytwocents said...

Why do I question your motives for giving Clare Press so much praise?

Erica Bartle (nee Holburn) said...

Hi MyTwoCents,

Funnily enough I don't know Press personally, nor have I met her. I do, however, like to give praise where praise is due, and I like her style: that's my only bias.

No ulterior motive!

Cheers,
Erica

mytwocents said...

I think she's great too, but I notice you've given props to her a LOT. My only hope is that one day I will recieve as much praise from highly-esteemed blogger such as yourself for any work I do! I'm jealous..

Do you think Clare is the next Vogue Australia editor, should Kirtie Clements move on?

Erica Bartle (nee Holburn) said...

Hmm, perhaps I should refrain from overly emphatic praise? While obviously everything on the blog is entirely subjective, I'd hate to lessen my credibility in the eyes of readers. I even had reservations about posting the 'beauty and the birthday' message.

Good to pull me up on such things.

With regards to Clare, she's got a lot going on with her fashion label, etc., and I'm not sure Kirstie Clements is going anywhere, but who knows?

Here's a link to a Vogue.com Q&A with Ms. Press:

http://www.vogue.com.au/fashion/articles/five_minutes_with/five_minutes_with_clare_press

Are you currently writing for mags or studying to do so?

xenien_x said...

Thanks for the review, GWAS. You certainly set the standard by which amateurish reviews such as mine ought to be judged.

xx

Erica Bartle (nee Holburn) said...

Xenien,
Have actually just been checking out your site - must give props for your passionate dedication to the tanning issue (you're so right on all fronts) and thanks for the GWAS mentions.

You're a VERY intelligent writer. And a medical student?! That puts you leagues ahead of moi.

Look forward to your Two Days in Paris review.

Cheers,
Erica

mytwocents said...

I'm never going to pretend that I am anything other than a complete wannabe at most things I do in life. It’s enjoyable trying though.

Never, ever worry about your credibility. If you don't publicise your wins, there’s not many that will?

BTW my blog is an embarrassment as I never have time to update it, let along impart fascinating musings....please do not judge me!!

Erica Bartle (nee Holburn) said...

Judge not and yee shall not be judged - I would never! Unless you are a magazine, or someone particularly and publicly appalling, you are off limits, on both blog and in mind.
Cheers,
Erica

Top bird said...

'Snow White and the Euro Dwarf'... haha, excellent!

Ondo Lady said...

Funny you should bemoan Feb issues, I find Jan issues a total wash out and avoid them like the plague, in fact I think they should charge less for them as they are so much thinner than other month's issues. I am actually dying to see PS I Love You, it looks smashing. Also I agree that Emily Blunt looks stunning in that picture, I almost did not recognise her.

Anonymous said...

wow julia looks amazing in that beauty shot!

Rochelle said...

I don't think there's any need to lighten up on the praise - writers like Ms Press deserve props from esteemed mag experts like yourself!

Personally, I like the vibe you've got going on the blog. There's never any snark or bitchiness and you've always got plenty of complimentary things to say. What's bad about that? Viva le praise! :-)

Erica Bartle (nee Holburn) said...

Merci, Rochelle. Thanks for the encouraging comment.

Cheers,
Erica

Ethan said...

Body of evidence is Valerija Erokhina
http://www.chicmanagement.com.au/chicmodels/index.php?sex=f&group=1